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San Antonio, Austin and environs - where do we want to go

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My partner and I are headed to San Antonio at the end of July so that he can go to a conference and I can visit Texas for the first time. We like cities, and nature, and are especially interested in how people organize and live together in whatever communities they've got (ie. social & political history and sociology). Other happy holiday finds have included biking Montreal's The Main and La Chine Canal, the National Museum of Mexican Art in Chicago and taking 3 kinds of trains to get to a hilltop overlooking Vienna. I have seen this question about a weekend break in Austin and this question about finding BBQ in Austin, and this Wwartorff's search for quirky cool spots for a new resident.

Beyond the Alamo & Riverwalk - what should we see in San Antonio? where should we venture off the beaten path to find tasty, interesting food?

On my own, I would like to visit some smaller places by car, ideally find some great antiques, or quilts, maybe visit a dude ranch for a couple nights. Where do you suggest I go?

We're thinking Austin for 2-3 days post-conference, is there anything between or near the two we shouldn't miss? Roadside attractions that will make us laugh? Directions to swimming holes you hesitate to advertise can be sent via MeMail.

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